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Visit 18^th Century Wynnstay and……

 Taste Chef Gareth Johns’ Scrumptious Shanks of Lamb

By Ken Thorne, Ninnau Food Editor

Braised Lamb Shank With Minted Demi-Glace, Garnished With Par Boiled Leek Rounds!

Food Prep and Photo: Ken Thorne.

Visit Machynlleth for real Welsh experiences – both spiritually and gastronomically! The town fills your heart with Welsh pride – Owain Glyndwr’s coronation as King of Wales occurred here in 1404 becoming his capital and seat of government. This year the town plans to celebrate with several 600th Year Anniversary events. The bounty, gastronomically speaking, is the fruits of labor of award-winning Chef Gareth Johns who plies his trade at the restored 1780 Wynnstay Hotel. Endowed with almost an Eden for his backyard - the beautiful Afon Dyfi (River Dovey) Valley region provides some of the best sheep, cattle, game, seafood (especially salmon), vegetables and wild mushrooms found anywhere. The resulting Dyfi Valley menus Gareth creates nurture both body and soul.

Machynlleth played a major role in Welsh history starting with the iron-age settlements through the Roman occupation to the times of Owain. Later centuries saw prosperity from the wool trade progressing to the recent economy of tourism and upscale agriculture.

When visiting Machynlleth, its Welsh history and culture affect me with such deep feelings. Certainly, a very real sense of pride pervades. The creation of momentous Welsh dreams originated here with Owain’s uprising! Today visit his parliament building for a renewed sense of drama. For me, emotion reverberates and the hiraeth - sense of longing never dims!

The Wynnstay, a former coaching inn is an historic Georgian hotel located in the center of Machynlleth. Sheila and Charles Dark have invested considerable money and effort in its careful restoration. A successful project, they retained the hotel’s rusticity and enhanced present day guest comfort. The inn built on the site of a medieval building, has retained the old cellars and cleverly incorporated them into its foundation. Wynnstay represents one of the many 17^th, 18^th and early 19^th century buildings on historic Maengwyn Street (White Stone), aptly reflecting the prosperity of the earlier wool trade.

The hotel’s sparkling white Georgian façade, its bold sign - The Wynnstay, the prominently placed Welsh flag featuring its Red Dragon captivate the traveler. Moreover, this is only the beginning! Enter to discover a traditional open-hearth fireplace, always well stoked, giving warmth and welcome to guests. Approaching the main bar, one finds its rustic interior immediately appealing. Meet some of the friendly locals and hear the latest gossip of the day. It is in the style of a cozy well-to-do farmhouse of the period yet it also has the distinctive features of an old Welsh pub. Admire the rich patina of the old woods so prevalent on the floors, walls and rafters. Were the Wynnstay to have existed, Owain Glyndwr and his entourage surely would have been regulars, eagerly perhaps reaching for their mugs hanging from the rafters as they arrive for an evening of companionship and strategizing!

The dark rich wood theme continues in the dining room. The room, adorned with leaded windows is bright and inviting. The cloth-covered tables are nicely spaced and conversations are at a pleasant level. The ground floor also features two quiet lounges with comfortable upholstered furniture. In George Borrow’s time (1854), they might have been called parlors – this description, ring a bell?

Incidentally, in his book Wild Wales (pub.1862), Borrow refers to Wynnstay “as the principal inn” in Machynlleth. He also wrote, “Machynlleth (sic)…. is a thoroughly Welsh town” and “….the inhabitants speak the ancient British language, Welsh (sic) with particular purity.” These observations are still true today.

My room faced Maengwyn Street . In the morning, I wished it was a Wednesday when the spirited Town Street Market (Royal Charter dating from 13^th Century) would be underway. The room’s four-poster bed, an original piece to the hotel was very comfortable even after over 220 years! An antique, intricately carved wooden armchair and an old wooden chest added to the room’s depth of character. My room, along with all other rooms now, had a private bath. I enjoyed the room’s décor; it added a real feeling of history in keeping with the rest of the hotel.

                 At dinner, seeing some of Chef Gareth’s well-known entrees on the menu, I asked if some tasting portion sizes might be available. Gareth is famous for several dishes, particularly his Radnor Rump of Lamb or any lamb dish including Lamb Shanks - on the lunch menu on the day of my visit. That night, Chef’s Peppered Duck Breast, Leg Lamb Steak, Medallions of Welsh Black Beef and Crusader Salmon were available – I tried sample portions of all four! Full flavored and perfectly cooked, they met all expectations. Wynnstay has a fine selection of wines, beers and ales. I choose an Italian red for the evening; owners, Sheila and Charles Dark have a great deal of expertise in these wines.

Left - Chef Gareth's Famous Peppered Duck Stacked on Potato Leek Patty with Pepper Sauce!                                 Right - Comfort Food Supreme! Lamb Steak & Mashed Potatoes Served Welsh Stew Style with Multiple Veggies!                                                                                                                   Click on picture to enlarge.

            After dinner, it was a quiet time to download, edit my photos for the day and finish some notes. To end the evening, I chose to enjoy a nightcap in the bar. As earlier, I found groups of locals and travelers, most were drinking beer from imperial measure pint glasses and mugs – full 20 oz! Conversation was lively in both Welsh and English.

Finding a spot with a little privacy, I was looking forward to a chat with Chef Johns after the kitchen closed for the evening. Gareth, even after a long day in the kitchen, was eager to talk. Gareth was born into a family devoted to Wales , the Welsh language and culture. Lucky fellow, he was also nurtured in the food and hospitality business – his family owned the seventeenth century The Red Lion Inn in Llanfihangel-Nant-Melan (New Radnor). Gareth says, “My upbringing was one to envy!” He built a considerable reputation and won many awards while running the Red Lion kitchen. With Gareth’s work at the Red Lion and the Wynnstay, the recognition of his talent and experience is widespread. Signifying his peers’ esteem is his long-standing relationship of the Welsh National Culinary Team. In the summer of 2003, he represented Wales and the Welsh National Culinary Team at The World Cooks Tour for the Hungry fundraising event in South Africa .                             Chef Gareth Johns - A Dyfi Valley Fresh Berry Tart!

He is the most enthusiastic person, but more so when discussing the Welsh food or the art of Welsh cooking through the ages. Welsh speaking, he reads and collects old Welsh manuscripts and cookbooks. Asked for a book suggestion, he said, “For foodies, I would recommend The Great Dishes of the World by Robert Carrier.”

Gareth is a leading authority on the history and development of Welsh culinary arts. He travels widely in Wales , the UK and Europe (he also speaks French) as a lecturer and cooking demonstrator. Frequently called upon as executive chef for important state and private functions, he said, “We provide Welsh cuisine made from fresh Welsh ingredients. Often, in addition to the Dyfi Valley food resources,” he continued, “we will use seafood caught in the waters off Aberdovey and lamb from the salt marshes of North Wales .”

Further, he explained, “In this relatively small country, we have such product diversity from the sea, rivers and geographically different farms – both hill and lowland. All can be available at the peak of their freshness. With improved culinary skills now present at most good restaurants, it’s no wonder people are flocking to Wales to dine.”

In discussing lamb shanks, Gareth said, “They have become very popular as a restaurant entrée in recent years on both sides of the Atlantic . Properly prepared, the slow cooked braised meat is tender and full of flavor.” Gareth’s recipe is easy to make and offers several optional variations. Pat and I have used this recipe at home and thoroughly enjoyed the result. If you wish, just before plating, add freshly chopped mint to the robust gravy - this enhances the overall flavor giving the traditional taste of lamb with mint. Mashed potatoes are a must with this gravy; choose a favorite vegetable and garnish with a sprig of mint.    

Mwynhewch Eich Garrau Oen – Enjoy Your Lamb Shanks!

Contact Ken Thorne: Email - WelshFoodie@aol.com.

Copyright © 2002/3/4 by Ken Thorne.

Wynnstay Website: www.wynnstay-hotel.com  

Recipe  

BRAISED LAMB SHANKS –GARRAU OEN WEDI’I FRWYSIO

By Head Chef Gareth Johns, The Wynnstay, Machynlleth, Powys, Wales

 Serves 4.

 Ingredients:

4 ea      Welsh Lamb Shanks - about ¾ to 1lb (350 to 450g) each

little oil or Welsh butter

1 ea      large onion, large carrot, stick celery- all chopped
1 ea      clove garlic, crushed.

½ tbsp  plain flour (optional)

salt and pepper to taste.

1 cup    dry red wine

2 cup    lamb stock to cover, chicken stock also works well

1 ea      bayleaf, sprig each of thyme and rosemary
 
Method:

In a suitable ovenproof pan, melt the butter/ heat the oil and brown the shanks. Remove. In the same pan, brown the vegetables and flour, replacing the shanks on top. Season lightly, and add wine, stock and herbs (stock should come halfway up shanks). Cook in a moderate oven 375° F /190° C /gas mark 5 until tender – about 1 to 11/2 hrs. Remove lamb and keep warm. Skim fat from gravy, remove herbs, and liquidize or pass through a sieve. Reduce to required consistency if not using flour, season and pour over lamb. Gareth says Hyfryd! (Very Good!)

Variations:

Add a cooked, diced beetroot to the gravy while reducing.
Substitute a Welsh cider for the red wine.
Replace the flour with 2 oz. red lentils, do not puree veg., and serve whole in the gravy.

Food Editor’s Notes:

Blanch a small leek, cut in rounds for use as garnish and in gravy.

Add freshly chopped mint to the gravy at the last minute for delicious mint taste.

Contact Ken Thorne: Email - WelshFoodie@aol.com.

Copyright © 2003/4 by Ken Thorne.