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Is The Leek – The Secret Of The Welsh Singing Voice?

By Ken Thorne, Food Editor

The Welsh love affair with the leek stretches back centuries and centuries. Throughout its prolific life, the leek succeeded in setting deep roots for itself in Welsh and World agriculture, food, history, music, politics, wars, sociology and even in the preparation of life after death for the Egyptian Pharaohs.  Brought to Wales about 50 AD by the Romans, the leek loved its new home and it took to the countryside with vigor. With leeks popular and plentiful, the future patron saint of Wales , David suggested Welsh warriors mount a leek in their caps and so clearly identify themselves in a war against the Saxons in the 6th Century.

The chance of an accidental killing of a compatriot eliminated and the war won, so evolved the love of the leek as the symbol of the Welsh independent spirit. This tenacity of spirit continues today with additional annotations of Welsh identity. We utter our cry of the centuries old “Cymru Am Byth – Wales For Ever” and more recently Welsh singer Dafydd Iwan’s emotional song “(Ry'nni) Yma O Hyd – (We Are) Still Here.”

Permit me a little digression while we are on the topic of Welsh beacons. Personally, I believe the most powerful Welsh icon has always been “Y Ddraig Goch - the Red Dragon.” Dragons, in various forms have existed for thousands of years. The Celts used them symbolically as early as 300 BC. Cadwaldr, Prince of Gywnedd used the Red Dragon as a battle standard in the 7^th century and may have been its first such usage by the Welsh. The Plantagenets and Tudors used the Red Dragon in their court of arms along with the emblems of the other home countries to try to emulate that they were the rulers of all of Britain . However, the dragon as a nationally recognized symbol is recent. First used officially in 1807, it became incorporated into the “King’s Badge of Wales.” Finally, with the result of a petition by the Gorsedd of Bards, the present day Welsh National Flag, emblazed with “Y Ddraig Goch - the Red Dragon” received official recognition in 1959.

Coincidentally, and this may be surprising to many readers, both the leek and the use of the dragon in battle arrived in Wales about the same time - with the Romans. They reputably used the dragon as a military standard for their legions. The Romans become very conscious of the dragon during their occupation of the Middle East . The dragon, originated in the Far East , arrived in the Middle East by virtue of it being the western terminus of the Silk Road , the trading route from the Far East and China .

Returning to leeks! The Egyptians used the leek profusely; hieroglyphic writings indicate it was the mainstay of the pyramid builders’ diet. Even then, the leek was reputed to be a healthy resource and one adaptable to a wide variety of cooking uses. As in the Middle Eastern river delta areas, it liked the rich moist soils and lowlands of Wales that provided a similar fruitful environment. It was no accident that these were precisely the choice areas in which the Romans built their forts!

Readers are familiar with the leek being a member of the onion family but a scion with its own distinct but more delicate subtle favor. The leek, called by some the “king of soup onions,” is an essential ingredient in casseroles and meat pies. It is also wonderful served braised or sautéed in butter/olive oil. More recently, the leek has found popular use as a bed for plating meat or fish in upscale restaurants.

In early times, leeks and pottages were almost synonymous; the thickening qualities of grains mixed with the flavor of leeks made for a sustainable popular meal. In Mrs Beeton’s book “The Best of British Home Cooking.” she says about her Leek and Oat Broth, “…..(sic. you) may be surprised how well (sic. these ingredients) work, giving a pleasing texture and contributing a slightly nutty flavor.” The legendary Scottish “Cock-a- Leekie soup probably originated as a leek and barley soup. Eventually, with the arrival of better times it evolved into a leek and chicken soup with thickening provided by prunes and marrowbone gelatin.

A traditional Welsh comfort food, the cream of leek and potato soup served hot, has been reborn as a chilled soup. Courtesy of Chef Louis Diat at the New York Ritz Carlton, the leek found new fame as a key ingredient in the world renowned Crème Vichyssoise. Bobby Freeman, author and former Fishguard restaurant owner relates in her book, Traditional Food From Wales, “….I used to tease the English who scoffed at Welsh food by serving Vichyssoise under the title ‘Chilled Cawl Cennin’ (lit. Chilled Soup Leek).” Of course, that was 30 or 40 years ago, now people flock from all over to dine in Wales . As an indication of how much the dining out experience has been elevated, five restaurants were Michelin stars recipients in 2002. If you enjoy Vichyssoise this summer, remember its Welsh roots!

What is the link between the leek pesto (It. sauce) recipe and Welsh singing? Remember the earlier leek link with the Romans?  As you may surmise by now, the leek also became a significant part of their diet during their occupation of the Middle East . Eventually, the Romans came to believe eating leeks on a regular basis contributed to a much-improved tone quality of the voice. Emperor Nero ate leek soup every day believing it improved his oratory effectiveness in the Senate. Has eating leeks for centuries and centuries been a major contributor to the beautiful singing abilities of the Welsh? Could a persistent leek diet have caused the creation of a special Welsh melodic gene?

I will offer this little note; I do know that during my school years, on St David’s Day, we chewed on our raw leeks (boys only) in the morning and had no trouble singing melodically later even if we each had less than sweet breath! Cook your leeks, save your breath and sing like a bird! Do you hear the shore birds, the waves and the swishing as sea breezes pass through the fields of leeks?  Do you hear these sounds intermingled with the distant notes of the traditional song “Ar Lan Y Mor – By The Sea Shore” coming from the lips of a Welsh choir?

When you are next in Wales , eat leeks in one or more of its myriad ways. Nevertheless, wherever you are be sure to:

Mwynhewch Eich Cennin– Enjoy Your Leeks!

Copyright © 2004 Ken Thorne 

Recipe

Leek and Welsh Cheese Pesto - An Easy Pasta Sauce!

    A sauce to use for quick everyday dishes. The mildest member of the onion family, the Welsh leek gives a sweet, light taste that combines perfectly with the lighter Welsh cheeses. Ideal for light snacks using any style of pasta, as a filling for lasagna or topping for moussaka.

Servings: Ingredients make 20 oz / 600m1

Ingredients:

l large                           leek, well washed, trimmed and chopped, net wt about 6/7 oz or 175/200 g

2 cloves                        garlic, peeled and chopped

                                    Salt and pepper

1 tbsp                           chopped parsley

1 tbsp                           basil

10 oz / 300 ml                vegetable stock – see note below

2 oz / 50 ml                   olive oil

5 oz/125 g                     cheese - Caerphilly type e.g. Natybwla, Caerfai, Cenarth, Gorwydd, or Organic Caerphilly – see note below.

2                                  egg yolks

Method:

Heat the olive oil in a large pan, add the leeks and cook over a low heat until soft, but still vibrant in colour. Add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. Place the leek mixture in a blender together with the herbs, stock, cheese and egg yolks. Process to form a smooth sauce and season to taste. The sauce may appear a little thin; it will thicken during the next step.

To use the sauce over cooked pasta - simply drain the pasta, return to the hot pan, place over a low heat, pour in the sauce and mix well. The egg yolks will thicken the sauce on heating. Garnish with fresh basil and oven roasted tomatoes.

This sauce is also wonderful with cooked potatoes and vegetables. Place the cooked vegetables or potatoes in an oven dish, cover with the sauce, sprinkle with a little more grated cheese and breadcrumbs and bake in a moderate oven for 25 minutes.

Note 1: The original recipe called for white wine e.g. Welsh “Sugar loaf” medium or “Glyndwr” medium dry. The wine represents a significant proportion of the recipe; it could dominate the taste. If you wish to use wine in the recipe (North America) I would suggest a very delicately flavored one such as a Riesling with 1 to 3% sugar or a White Zinfandel. The first time you use wine try a 50/50 blend of stock/wine.

Note 2: Farmhouse Caerphilly Cheese is available in North American. Genuine farmhouse style is expensive but worth it! Treasure it for eating, serve with a good white wine, crackers or fruit! Use the Internet to locate a source or visit www.WelshFoodie.com and click on Welsh Cheese. Made in England factory style Caerphilly Cheeses are more readily available and less expensive; I use this cheese for cooking because of price and availability but it is also very good to eat! Factory style Caerphilly may be available at your local specialty cheese shop. In Northern Ohio, check with Heinen’s Fine Foods, Cleveland area or West Point Market, Akron. Look for Somerdale, Appleby or Amber Valley brands.

Note 3: In a traditional Pesto recipe, the solids are principally basil, cheese and pine nuts. It can, however, be made with a variety of herbs or vegetables. I have successfully made it substituting the basil with mint or parsley. If you wish to add pine nuts to the recipe, use about 1 to 1 ½ oz / 25 to 40 g.

Note 4: This sauce can also be made with 6/7 oz or 175/200 g roasted Mediterranean vegetables, or the same quantity of roasted onions and garlic mixed.

 Mwynhewch Eich Pesto Cennin A Caws Caerffili   – Enjoy Your Leek and Caerphilly Cheese Pesto!

Recipe from WDA Food Directorate adapted by Ken Thorne, Food Editor, Ninnau

Copyright © 2001/2004 WDA/Ken Thorne

Contact Ken Thorne: Email - WelshFoodie@aol.com