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CROESO MAWR TRADITIONAL WELSH FOOD - BWYD CYMREIG TRADDODIADOL |
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HEARTY WELCOME MODERN WELSH COOKING - COGINIO CYMREIG CYFOES |
FABULOUS FOOD IN WALES
BY
KEN THORNE, NINNAU FOOD EDITOR
NORTH WALES
Portmeirion
Hotel Restaurant and Castell Deudraeth Bar and Grill.
011 44 1766 770 000. www.portmeirion-village.com
This was to be my first face-to-face meeting with Executive Head Chef
Billy Taylor. Chef Taylor and I have exchanged emails and talked on the phone
many times during the past year. He has been very helpful and a great
inspiration to me. I wrote an article in the Ninnau, April 2001 that featu
red
his Boneless Loin of Lamb. At the 2002 Cleveland St David’s Day Dinner, the
Lamb Loin recipe was well received, as was his Bara Brith Pudding.
We discussed many aspects of
Welsh Cooking and I was given an opportunity to take photographs in the
kitchen on a busy Friday night. That kitchen ticks smoothly!
For Lunch at the Hotel Restaurant I chose an appetizer of Smoked Duck
with Aubergine (eggplant) Confit and Glazed Fig and Cherry Tomatoes. Entrée
was Rib Eye of Pen Llyn Beef on a Confit of Cabbage with Bacon, Balsamic
Tomatoes and Oyster Mushrooms. Dessert was Plum and Almond Tart.
For dinner the appetizer was Roast Stuffed Quail on Black Pudding Mash
with Madeira Jus. Also available was Pan Seared Scallops set on Wilted Pok
Choy and Spinach with a Shellfish Cream. Entree selection was Loin of Welsh Lamb with a Celeriac
Mousseline, Fondant Potatoes, Crispy Pancetta and Roasted Garlic. Dessert
chosen was Sevigne – Chocolate and Hazelnut Sponge with Crispy
Praline and Chocolate Mousse. Very 
enjoyable and all this in the line of duty!
Next day, it was dining at 1850’s Castell Deudraeth, which
Portmeirion has restored. Located within the grounds, it’s their newest
venture – a Bistro with minimalistic décor. On a Saturday night in low
season it was packed, guests really enjoyed the atmosphere.
Dining selections were an
appetizer of Salad Nicoise with Seared Tuna. An entrée of Bardsey Lobster
Thermidor with Chive Hollandaise Sauce was chosen.
Portmeirion has an excellent website. I will share a little secret
with you! If you lunch at the hotel restaurant you will receive a credit
on your lunch check against the cost of the sightseeing admission to the
village – a perfect way to spend a day?
This
is one of the masterpieces of hospitality in Wales. It’s a large historic
mansion standing with splendid majesty in beautiful grounds. Peter Jackson,
Chief Patron and Manager of the W
elsh Culinary Team, and his wife, Lynn, have,
over the past decade or so, built one of the best reputations in the business.
Now partnered with Lynn's sister and brother-in-law, Doreen and Peter Payne,
they have a trained staff that is the epitome of graciousness and
professionalism.
My
room was located in the oldest 14th Century section. All rooms are
individually decorated. My room’s four-poster bed was very comfortable and I
had a good sleep. However, I had a surprise at breakfast! A staff member asked
me if I had had a visitor in the middle of the night. I answered a
cautious
“No”! “Well”, she said, “your room is reputed to have a ghost visit
from to time.” Apparently, a former nurse-maid visits but only comes when
there is a sick person in the room.” It’s good to know I was well even if
I was carrying a couple of extra pounds!
For
dinner, a complimentary Deep Fried Spring Sausage on Creamed Vegetables was
served. The appetizer chosen was a Salad of Pigeon and Ballantine of Guinea
Fowl
with Honey and Garlic Dressing. (Ballantine or Ballotine is a deboned
poultry leg stuffed with forcemeat.) Second course offered was Garden Leek and
Potato Soup. Stuffed Loin of Lamb on a bed of Vegetable Salad Confit was my
choice for dinner. Dessert was Lemon Lime Tart. I very much enjoyed the food
in a very comfortable dining atmosphere. Service was properly attentive.
Every
restaurant visited was dedicated to using fresh local ingredients. With Maes Y
Neuadd this practice is almost a religion. They have acres of absolutely
beautiful gardens. They grow almost everything they use from berries to fruits
to vegetables. Be sure to visit the gardens.
PWLLHELI,
GYWNEDD
Plas
Bodegroes. 011 44 1758 612 363. www.bodegroes.co.uk
This
is the third and last of the Michelin Star restaurants on this trip. At one
time Plas Bodegroes was the only Michelin Star restaurant in Wales. Owners are
Chef Chris Chown and wife Gunna.
Plas
Bodegroes promotes its self as a restaurant with rooms. My room was
nicely decorated and I felt at ease immediately. But what a view from the
window, one’s eyes immediately race 
across a large manicured lawn only to
have them focus on an endless wooded avenue of dancing bluebells.
There
were just a few of us for dinner that night. The dining room was charming and
dignified. Dining was peaceful and the service perfect. For appetizer course,
I sampled two selections – Smoked Salmon Parcel of Crabmeat with Pink
Grapefruit Dressing and the Pan-fried Pigeon breast with Bubble and Squeak and
Onion Cream Sauce. 
For the entrée I chose Roast Cutlets of Mountain Lamb with
a Welsh Onion Cake and Rosemary Sauce.
Everywhere
I have been, dessert menus have a selection of cheeses. In most cases, they
are exclusively the excellent Welsh Cheeses. Cheese making in Wales 
has now
come to the forefront. There are so many wonderful cheeses available today.
For
the dessert course, in addition to beautiful cheeses, Plas Bodegroes offers a
savory Welsh Rarebit Tart on a Celery and Walnut Salad – what a nice idea
and it tasted good too! In addition, being the Bara Brith Pudding lover I am,
I sampled their version. Chef Chown is reputed to be the originator of the use
of Bara Brith in a bread and butter pudding. Served with Whisky Ice Cream it
was delightful. It seems like an echo but their food was just so good.
As
always, please call any restaurant ahead to check on availability and pricing.
Please remember restaurants can have off days. I have made it a habit of
checking if the head chef is cooking the time of my planned visit.
Mwynhewch
eich Prydau - Bon Appétit - Enjoy your Meals.
